Cheese of the month – Dhorlin

This month’s cheese may be relatively new, but it’s already turning heads in the artisan cheese world. Meet Dhorlin – a washed rind cow’s milk cheese hailing from the west coast of Scotland. 

The cheese is made by Inverloch Dairy on the Mull of Kintyre, Scotland, and takes its name from the Dhorlin Causeway that connects the mainland of Kintyre to the Isle of Davaar.

David and Grace Eaton have been making cheese on their family farm for more than 30 years. What began with a goat’s milk cheddar has since expanded into a wider range that includes Howgate Kintyre – a mild, buttery blue – alongside a brie-style cheese made using milk from local Ayrshire cows. 

In 2024, cheesemaker Rosie Eaton sent a small batch of Dhorlin – a new cheese she’d been experimenting with – to the team at Mellis Cheesemongers. They were instantly impressed with this Scottish take on a Taleggio-style cheese and started selling it across their cheese shops. 

HOW IT’S MADE

The cheese uses Penicillium roqueforti – the same mould used in blue cheeses. However, because the cheese isn’t pierced during the ageing process, it doesn’t develop the characteristic blue veins through the middle of the cheese. Instead, the mould develops as a delicate blue dusting on the rind, contributing earthy aromas and a savoury flavour.

The cheese is washed in a salt brine solution which gives it a slightly sticky exterior and orange-coloured rind. The brine washing adds a gentle salinity while drawing out moisture, giving the cheese its supple, slightly springy structure. 

TASTING NOTES 

Washed rind cheeses can become very funky in flavour, as the friendly bacteria produced during the washing process contributes to meaty or savoury flavours that can be quite pungent. Some classic examples are the French Époisses, washed in Marc de Bourgogne Brandy or the English perry-washed Stinking Bishop. 

Dhorlin doesn’t have the same level of funk. Instead, it has a delicate nuttiness and gentle savoury character, balanced by a soft, supple texture. This makes it an excellent entry point into washed rind cheese for anyone wary of stronger, more punchy examples. 

FOOD AND DRINK PAIRINGS

Dhorlin works just as well on a cheeseboard as it does in a variety of recipes.

• Bread: Try it with crispbreads, sourdough crackers or a crusty baguette.
• Fruit: Pairs beautifully with fresh figs, crisp slices of apple or a quince jelly.
• Nuts: Raw cashews or toasted walnuts can add a contrasting crunch to the cheese’s soft and gooey texture.

For drinks pairings, you’ll want something crisp and clean to complement its gentle acidity and complex rind:

• White Wine: Aromatic whites, such as Italian Gavi di Gavi, dry Gewürztraminer, or Alsace Pinot Gris, have enough acidity and texture to cut through the richness of the cheese. 
• Red Wine: Low-tannin reds like Pinot Noir or Gamay (Beaujolais) will complement Dhorlin’s savoury notes without clashing with the saltiness of the brine-washed rind.
• Beers: The yeasty, citrusy notes of a Belgian-style wheat beer work well with the nutty finish and creamy texture of the cheese.
• Non-alcoholic: The fiery kick of a high-quality ginger beer cleanses the palate and adds a refreshing contrast to the buttery cheese.

Dhorlin is also a great substitute for a melted Raclette-style cheese. Try topping thinly sliced roasted potatoes and caramelised onions with the cheese, then bake until bubbling and golden. You could also add cubes of the cheese to a veggie frittata, like the cavolo nero, chard and chives version I made for a quick lunch. 

KEY FACTS

• Milk: Pasteurised Guernsey cow’s milk.
• Rennet: Vegetarian rennet.
• Style: Brine-washed rind with natural blue moulding. 
• Made by: Inverloch Cheese Company, Campbeltown, Scotland.  
• Best eaten: Make sure you bring the cheese to room temperature to fully appreciate the subtle flavours. 

FINAL THOUGHTS

What started out as a one-off experiment has grown to become a firm favourite in the kitchens and dining rooms of artisan cheese fans. Available exclusively from Mellis Cheese, it’s a little Scottish stunner that’s worth adding to your cheeseboard. 

🧀✨ Let me know if you’ve tried it — or if you’ve found your own perfect pairing.